Scenes from the farewell dinner at Taverna Kritikos, in the Plaka.
Friday, June 10, 2011
The 2011 Socrates Awards
Each student submitted an especially insightful or meaningful observation from our travels in Greece. These observations were then collected anonymously, sorted into five categories, and read by all the students, who voted on the "best" observation in each category. Each winner took home the coveted Socrates Award. Following are the winning entries for each of the five categories.
1. History: Amanda Roush
Athenians are literally living on top of their history. One of the most interesting ideas that kept popping up during our site visits, especially in Athens, was the balance of preserving the old with the new. We have discussed the idealized thinking of ancient Greece by people all over the world, often forgetting about the challenges modern Greece faces in the process, and I cannot help but feel that part of the attitude of the modern Greeks is partially because of this. They know that the entire world used to look to them, I think, and now they are mostly forgot about in the current age of the global superpowers. The return of the Olympic games to Greece held the world’s attention for a time, it sparked the efforts to reach back to their Classical Age roots.
The modern world has to find a way to be in harmony with the ancient world. Erin mentioned the church that had a building literally built over it. The Acropolis Museum was a combination of a modern building designed to give us a view of the ruins that it was built over. The new metropolitan city should not be forgotten about during the quest for Classical Greece, in fact, as our trip to the Agora demonstrated, the two might be more similar than we can even imagine. No, there are no cars or cell phones or technology of that sort, but it really isn’t that different. The modern city is squeezed together, the streets are narrow and winding, there are hardly spaces for sidewalks sometimes. There is virtually no privacy if you don’t have curtains over the windows. These are all things we noticed in the bits and pieces of the ancient city we saw. There are large open squares filled with government buildings, shops and cafes, people interact here just like they may have in the ancient Agora. The modern world could, in some ways be a replica of the ancient, with differences of course but there is no denying that the city architecture is very similar to the ruins that lay beneath it all.
There were questions of which historical period should be emphasized when dealing with buildings as old as the Parthenon. It still amazes me that a building older than our country is still standing as intact as it is, never mind the fact that it was bombed. It is the testament to the old motto, “Use it or lose it.” Things accumulate in layers, generally, and it is often a question of how deep into the layers to look, or stop looking. Thinking back to the Parthenon, it was a building that was more than just a temple to Athena, it was a church for longer than a temple and mosque after that. Which period deserves the most importance? Should we revert to the original intentions or the function it served as the longest?
These are just some of the questions and parallels that pop into my head about what it must be like to live in such a historical city and country.
2. Culture: Ginger
Going to the toilet is a basic function that most of us accept as a private necessity but give little thought to the topic and its various methods. In Ancient Greece the city privy was a much more public place than the modern solitude of walled bathroom structures. In both the Ancient city of Corinth and the Agora of Athens, toilet ruins attest to the public nature of ancient bathroom business. In short, the bathroom structures reveal that toilets were simple lined up sitting structures that provided holes for deposit. These lined up toilets were not walled off from the public and created no solitude for the user. Instead, people could see the happenings of the city and be side by side to another individual that was also occupying the public bathrooms.
The lack of bathroom privacy in city centers demonstrates that ancient Greeks had different views about the public and private sphere. The likely possibility that people could and did see business partners; neighbors and friends use the restroom did not faze the Ancient Greeks in the slightest. Privacy was not expected or viewed the same as modern bathroom and grooming behavior. However, things have changed greatly in modern Greece since this period. Hence, when in Greece, do not do what the Ancient Greeks would do.
3. Life in Athens: Tie Vote
Jenny
Having now spent a significant amount of time in Athens I have come to consider the city as being the noisiest, most chaotic, dirtiest, most wonderful and beautiful place I have ever had the pleasure of visiting. While there are many pessimistic things I could say about life here, I could counter each bad point with an amazing, uniquely Athenian quality that makes living with the city’s poorer characteristics a very small price to pay for what one receives in return: a quick peek into the culture and lifestyle of a long-established, passionate people that cannot be obtained from or replicated in any other city anywhere else in the world.
Identifying the city throughout the world, the beautiful Acropolis and other ruins are quiet, magnificent reminders of the prosperity and ingenious of the Greek people. These peaceful landmarks, reminiscent of an age in which Greece was at the height of its glory, serve to contrast the unfortunate struggles of modern Greece displayed daily through protests, graffiti, and posters citywide. The monuments also provide a relief from the hustle and bustle of nonstop city life and the constant worry of being killed by any random form of transportation coming your way; walking down the paths used in Classical times creates a place where time and all the craziness of our modern world seems to disappear, or at least pause, for a little while. Strolling down the streets of modern Athens, one sees the effects of the current economic situation as people beg or play music for a few Euros a day in front of the high end clothing stores that help to give Ermou its expensive reputation. Contrasting one another and somehow coexisting at the same time, the poor “working” in an area meant for the wealthy gives Athens another unique characteristic, the ability to blend and interact with people from all parts of the world and all social and economic situations. It seems as if every component, good or bad, of Athenian life must be thought of with a little more perspective than the amount given to snap judgments. The craziness you may think constant in this city is juxtaposed by the relaxed feeling of an Athenian evening in the Plaka or the seemingly non-existent work ethic. If pollution becomes an annoyance or constant element downtown, make your way to the coast where you will find beautiful beaches and clear, blue waters with friendly sea turtles; the sketchiness of Omonoia finds its counterpart in the safety and tourist-friendly square of Syntagma, and so on and so forth.
Athens would seem to be a world of opposites, constantly contrasting and highlighting one another and I admit that each aspect perhaps emphasizes how different the lifestyles of past and the present are, but if you come and experience Athens for yourself, you see that instead of creating a world of harsh hypocrisy, everything that makes Athens unique blends together to create an even more unique harmony which is Athenian life.
Andrea
Inside Looking In
Quiet early mornings
Noisy during day
Filled with traffic, pedestrians,
Small shops and cafes
Walkways like cobblestone
Side streets very slender
Gyros, frappes, and gelato
Obtained at any vendor
Nap times always welcomed
After a mid-morning’s tire
Classical ruins of cities past
Survive to be admired
Stray cats and dogs roam the city
Looking for affection
Restaurants eager for your service
Found in all directions
Kiosks are like quick marts
Selling drinks, chips, and sweets
Houses within the area
Certainly obsolete
Athens – a bustling city
Ancient, yet still new
Inside looking in
Allows this point of view.
1. History: Amanda Roush
Athenians are literally living on top of their history. One of the most interesting ideas that kept popping up during our site visits, especially in Athens, was the balance of preserving the old with the new. We have discussed the idealized thinking of ancient Greece by people all over the world, often forgetting about the challenges modern Greece faces in the process, and I cannot help but feel that part of the attitude of the modern Greeks is partially because of this. They know that the entire world used to look to them, I think, and now they are mostly forgot about in the current age of the global superpowers. The return of the Olympic games to Greece held the world’s attention for a time, it sparked the efforts to reach back to their Classical Age roots.
The modern world has to find a way to be in harmony with the ancient world. Erin mentioned the church that had a building literally built over it. The Acropolis Museum was a combination of a modern building designed to give us a view of the ruins that it was built over. The new metropolitan city should not be forgotten about during the quest for Classical Greece, in fact, as our trip to the Agora demonstrated, the two might be more similar than we can even imagine. No, there are no cars or cell phones or technology of that sort, but it really isn’t that different. The modern city is squeezed together, the streets are narrow and winding, there are hardly spaces for sidewalks sometimes. There is virtually no privacy if you don’t have curtains over the windows. These are all things we noticed in the bits and pieces of the ancient city we saw. There are large open squares filled with government buildings, shops and cafes, people interact here just like they may have in the ancient Agora. The modern world could, in some ways be a replica of the ancient, with differences of course but there is no denying that the city architecture is very similar to the ruins that lay beneath it all.
There were questions of which historical period should be emphasized when dealing with buildings as old as the Parthenon. It still amazes me that a building older than our country is still standing as intact as it is, never mind the fact that it was bombed. It is the testament to the old motto, “Use it or lose it.” Things accumulate in layers, generally, and it is often a question of how deep into the layers to look, or stop looking. Thinking back to the Parthenon, it was a building that was more than just a temple to Athena, it was a church for longer than a temple and mosque after that. Which period deserves the most importance? Should we revert to the original intentions or the function it served as the longest?
These are just some of the questions and parallels that pop into my head about what it must be like to live in such a historical city and country.
2. Culture: Ginger
Going to the toilet is a basic function that most of us accept as a private necessity but give little thought to the topic and its various methods. In Ancient Greece the city privy was a much more public place than the modern solitude of walled bathroom structures. In both the Ancient city of Corinth and the Agora of Athens, toilet ruins attest to the public nature of ancient bathroom business. In short, the bathroom structures reveal that toilets were simple lined up sitting structures that provided holes for deposit. These lined up toilets were not walled off from the public and created no solitude for the user. Instead, people could see the happenings of the city and be side by side to another individual that was also occupying the public bathrooms.
The lack of bathroom privacy in city centers demonstrates that ancient Greeks had different views about the public and private sphere. The likely possibility that people could and did see business partners; neighbors and friends use the restroom did not faze the Ancient Greeks in the slightest. Privacy was not expected or viewed the same as modern bathroom and grooming behavior. However, things have changed greatly in modern Greece since this period. Hence, when in Greece, do not do what the Ancient Greeks would do.
3. Life in Athens: Tie Vote
Jenny
Having now spent a significant amount of time in Athens I have come to consider the city as being the noisiest, most chaotic, dirtiest, most wonderful and beautiful place I have ever had the pleasure of visiting. While there are many pessimistic things I could say about life here, I could counter each bad point with an amazing, uniquely Athenian quality that makes living with the city’s poorer characteristics a very small price to pay for what one receives in return: a quick peek into the culture and lifestyle of a long-established, passionate people that cannot be obtained from or replicated in any other city anywhere else in the world.
Identifying the city throughout the world, the beautiful Acropolis and other ruins are quiet, magnificent reminders of the prosperity and ingenious of the Greek people. These peaceful landmarks, reminiscent of an age in which Greece was at the height of its glory, serve to contrast the unfortunate struggles of modern Greece displayed daily through protests, graffiti, and posters citywide. The monuments also provide a relief from the hustle and bustle of nonstop city life and the constant worry of being killed by any random form of transportation coming your way; walking down the paths used in Classical times creates a place where time and all the craziness of our modern world seems to disappear, or at least pause, for a little while. Strolling down the streets of modern Athens, one sees the effects of the current economic situation as people beg or play music for a few Euros a day in front of the high end clothing stores that help to give Ermou its expensive reputation. Contrasting one another and somehow coexisting at the same time, the poor “working” in an area meant for the wealthy gives Athens another unique characteristic, the ability to blend and interact with people from all parts of the world and all social and economic situations. It seems as if every component, good or bad, of Athenian life must be thought of with a little more perspective than the amount given to snap judgments. The craziness you may think constant in this city is juxtaposed by the relaxed feeling of an Athenian evening in the Plaka or the seemingly non-existent work ethic. If pollution becomes an annoyance or constant element downtown, make your way to the coast where you will find beautiful beaches and clear, blue waters with friendly sea turtles; the sketchiness of Omonoia finds its counterpart in the safety and tourist-friendly square of Syntagma, and so on and so forth.
Athens would seem to be a world of opposites, constantly contrasting and highlighting one another and I admit that each aspect perhaps emphasizes how different the lifestyles of past and the present are, but if you come and experience Athens for yourself, you see that instead of creating a world of harsh hypocrisy, everything that makes Athens unique blends together to create an even more unique harmony which is Athenian life.
Andrea
Inside Looking In
Quiet early mornings
Noisy during day
Filled with traffic, pedestrians,
Small shops and cafes
Walkways like cobblestone
Side streets very slender
Gyros, frappes, and gelato
Obtained at any vendor
Nap times always welcomed
After a mid-morning’s tire
Classical ruins of cities past
Survive to be admired
Stray cats and dogs roam the city
Looking for affection
Restaurants eager for your service
Found in all directions
Kiosks are like quick marts
Selling drinks, chips, and sweets
Houses within the area
Certainly obsolete
Athens – a bustling city
Ancient, yet still new
Inside looking in
Allows this point of view.
4. Life Outside Athens: Amanda Robinette
Throughout our travels around the Greek countryside, specifically to Napflio and Sparta, I was able to recognize the importance of the town square to everyday Greek life. While the town square takes on a more commercial role in Athens, I found it to have a strong role in fostering a sense of community in both Napflio and Sparta. In Napflio, friends sat in the square at restaurants for what seemed to be hours discussing their families, the weather, politics, and the future. While this gave me a sense of the great importance of family in the Greek culture, it was not until our arrival in Sparta that I could experience this sense of community to its fullest. After getting gelato at Mr. Donut, I was able to stand in the square and observe the people around me. The restaurants around the square were packed with people, most of which were watching the soccer game with great intensity. While the people watched the game, children of all ages filled the square, playing soccer long into the night. The parents kept an eye on their children, however, it seemed perfectly safe for them to be there. It is often rare that Greeks have yards, so the square becomes a place for the children to play and for teenagers to socialize.
5. Best Overall Story: Erica
It all started with looking for the girl in the skirt, Wisconsin shirt, and baseball hat in the Philly airport, or speculating that you were sitting kiddy corner from a fellow study abroad-er and being too nervous to say anything, or just going right up to people and asking potential Badgers if they were Amanda and then deciding to ask a less accusatory question such as “…Are you from the UW?” No matter what method one experienced, it is sure to be a lasting memory of how you met your first fellow UW-Madison Classics in Athens, Greece Study Abroad buddy. One will also probably remember the flights and layovers, especially if you were getting lost in the deep philosophies of the SkyMall Magazine, or the numerous things you could do on the screen on the back of the chair in front of you, or encountering a crotchety old man when you have 2 seats all to yourself (how dare someone sit there!), or trying not to pee the whole plane ride. Before you knew it, you were in Athens, Greece, being greeted by Professor Jeff Beneker… and not knowing how to address him: Do I say something in Greek to show I’m prepared? Do I call him Professor? Jeff? No matter your choice of greeting, he eventually acquires the nick name “J-Becks,” which doesn’t even make a lot sense and is probably a question of whether the nicknamer even knew the professors last name after a whole week…or if the Ouzo was just getting to them. You also learn to hate the word “Professor” as you hear it shouted from some unknown location that seems to be coming from below you in a recognizable accent that screams “Yes, I am from America.” Anyway, you are soon sitting at a lovely dinner outside with a huge plate of foreign food in front of you and strange people next to you and, OMG could it be…WINE? But they didn’t even check your ID? (That’s right young ones, enjoy it while you can). There are also dogs and cats staring at you while you eat your food and then they follow you around when you walk. You soon come to realize that these dogs are your protectors and you’ll be free from aggressive Greek men and you won’t have to try and pronounce “a-se me!” after all!
And just like that, you are getting used to Greek culture and getting to know your class mates. Before you know it you are sitting at the Farewell Dinner 18 days later and you think about all of the memories and how much you are going to miss your odd, quirky classmates and all the experiences you had together:
That kid who just has a knack for stepping in dog feces, the girl who seems to ruin every picture because she is fixing her strappy sandals or not looking or not smiling (oh wait, is she ever smiling?), the one always in the back because she is a slow walker and always taking pictures and then tries to make up for it by cracking some sarcastic remark… (who could that be?). When your professor and two other students form a Secret (Ouzo) Society and then you crash it in Sparta and meet a group of old men, when you never want to see another gyro in your life because you’ve eaten one every day for the past week (because they are only 2 euro!), when your bus breaks down 5 minutes from your hotel and you have to leave Yannis. How everyone got tipsy at a wine tasting and couldn’t be quiet during a short film, how your professor interpreted Greek to English for you but he still had the same mannerisms in both languages (in that he repeats Yes and Ah at least twice per sentence), how it didn’t matter if you couldn’t finish your food because you could just give it to a fellow classmate and you knew it wouldn’t be wasted.
Whether it was seeing your professor and the only two boys on the trip dance, finding out that Greek men smell pretty bad, or realizing that you have way more connections with the people on the trip than you thought, you know that you will have these memories for life and that all the people, all the sites, all the amazing experiences you had will be with you for a life time and will probably effect you in ways you don’t even realize.
So, here is to Study Abroad – Greece 2011 and Yannis everywhere! YIA – SAS!
Amy: Final Impressions
Being in another country for three weeks forces you to become accustomed to many different aspects of culture. This was the first time I was a foreigner who could not speak the native language, or even read simple directions. Initially, I found myself comparing everything to the life I knew in the United States. However, since each place is unique in its own right, it is not fair to compare one to the other. We all had to get used to showering in those crazy two-walled contraptions, and learn not to flush toilet paper down the toilet. We had to get used to being brought –and charged- for bread whether we asked for it or not. Becoming accustomed to no sales tax was an easy task, but it was more challenging getting used to the conversion rate for dollars to Euros. We all had to learn to negotiate at the markets in order to stretch our Euros as far as possible. And, many of us learned the stark differences between Greek and American nightlife.
In the end, I love Athens, and Greece, as a whole. Not only did I love it because of all the stories and history contained within, but it was also something new and different. Each of the seventeen people on this trip made it something special. Everyone contributed a different element in order to make each site something interesting, funny, or memorable. Each day was a new adventure, teaching us something about ancient history that we are never confronted with in our own country. I have a new meaning to ancient. It no longer includes things before 1900, but rather now includes things from 1900 years ago. This whole experience opened my eyes to another culture, and in the end it also made me appreciate everything we have in our own country.
In the end, I love Athens, and Greece, as a whole. Not only did I love it because of all the stories and history contained within, but it was also something new and different. Each of the seventeen people on this trip made it something special. Everyone contributed a different element in order to make each site something interesting, funny, or memorable. Each day was a new adventure, teaching us something about ancient history that we are never confronted with in our own country. I have a new meaning to ancient. It no longer includes things before 1900, but rather now includes things from 1900 years ago. This whole experience opened my eyes to another culture, and in the end it also made me appreciate everything we have in our own country.
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| Wine tasting in Nemea |
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| Sea urchin in Aegina |
September: Final Impressions
When I first saw Athens and really took it in, I had no idea what to make of it. It was kind of like tasting something new…kind of like my experience of trying calamari. I was so excited to be in what many call “the cradle of democracy”, and I had so many preconceptions about this place I had heard so much about in a historical context. I was blown away, though, because I had no clue what to expect about present day Athens. My first thoughts were, “Wow! I have no clue how I’m going to live here for three weeks! I can’t even figure out my way to the hotel.” The hustle and bustle of millions of tourists and tons of Athenians made me feel very overwhelmed. I had no idea what to focus on, or how to focus at all for that matter!
I never thought I would get used to this city, I thought it was too noisy, too polluted with ugly graffiti, and too full of pushy people. Never-the-less, it grew on me. That ugly graffiti and those waiters and shop owners who wouldn’t let you go about your way without trying to draw you in gradually became endearing. I didn’t realize it, but Athens was becoming more and more appealing to me. At first, all I wanted to do was ignore the present day parts of the city and only pay attention to the ancient ruins that were scattered throughout it. I mean, that’s what I came to study and it only seemed natural, right? Well, I learned more and more as we took our course that one should never ignore the present day parts of a city. The development and the culture of the city today helps us learn a lot about the past just as the past helps us learn and prepare for the future. I’m so happy that I learned to take in more of the city and its culture as it is today, if I hadn’t, I’m afraid I would have learned very little from this study abroad experience.
The first moment that I really started to appreciate Athens for what it actually is today, was when I saw an interaction between an illegal immigrant and a restaurant employee. The immigrant was trying to sell a toy helicopter to some of the customers of the restaurant. I saw one of the waiters come out and I remember thinking, “Oh no! There’s going to be trouble!” I thought about how soliciting in restaurants was very forbidden in the U.S. and I was worried that the immigrant was going to be publicly humiliated (as if it’s not enough humiliation to have to make a living selling things illegally), but to my surprise the waiter just patted him on the back and went about his own business. The next day, sitting down in a café and drinking water like I hadn’t had any in weeks because of the intense sunlight and heat, I witnessed another surprising interaction between an illegal immigrant and a waiter. The waiter saw the immigrant selling fake designer purses in the sun and offered him a cold glass of tap water. These small acts of, not really kindness, but acceptance really surprised me. In a way, I felt slightly ashamed for the lack of acceptance that Americans and other powerful countries show for the less fortunate.
The occurrence of small acts like these in Athens taught me that I had so much to learn from being here! I think many others can learn a lot too, if only they would open their eyes. We are often too consumed with first impressions to ever give something a real chance. I almost didn’t give Athens a chance. I almost wrote it off as a city too busy, too poor, too dirty, and too strange for me to ever accept. Fortunately, I opened my eyes. Finally I saw the beauty that has drawn so many into the city of Athens. I now saw the graffiti that covered most surfaces of Athens as forms of art or a way for many to express themselves in this difficult economic and political time. I now saw waiters and shop keepers as human beings rather than unemotional, fake people who were trained to please (and sometimes cheat) tourists. Sure, the ancient part of Athens is beautiful and important; getting to stand on the acropolis and among the foundations of buildings in the agoras will forever be a sweet memory for me. There is so much else, though, to see here. Never close your eyes after your first glance…always look deeper and longer…you’ll always be in for a beautiful surprise in Athens.
I never thought I would get used to this city, I thought it was too noisy, too polluted with ugly graffiti, and too full of pushy people. Never-the-less, it grew on me. That ugly graffiti and those waiters and shop owners who wouldn’t let you go about your way without trying to draw you in gradually became endearing. I didn’t realize it, but Athens was becoming more and more appealing to me. At first, all I wanted to do was ignore the present day parts of the city and only pay attention to the ancient ruins that were scattered throughout it. I mean, that’s what I came to study and it only seemed natural, right? Well, I learned more and more as we took our course that one should never ignore the present day parts of a city. The development and the culture of the city today helps us learn a lot about the past just as the past helps us learn and prepare for the future. I’m so happy that I learned to take in more of the city and its culture as it is today, if I hadn’t, I’m afraid I would have learned very little from this study abroad experience.
The first moment that I really started to appreciate Athens for what it actually is today, was when I saw an interaction between an illegal immigrant and a restaurant employee. The immigrant was trying to sell a toy helicopter to some of the customers of the restaurant. I saw one of the waiters come out and I remember thinking, “Oh no! There’s going to be trouble!” I thought about how soliciting in restaurants was very forbidden in the U.S. and I was worried that the immigrant was going to be publicly humiliated (as if it’s not enough humiliation to have to make a living selling things illegally), but to my surprise the waiter just patted him on the back and went about his own business. The next day, sitting down in a café and drinking water like I hadn’t had any in weeks because of the intense sunlight and heat, I witnessed another surprising interaction between an illegal immigrant and a waiter. The waiter saw the immigrant selling fake designer purses in the sun and offered him a cold glass of tap water. These small acts of, not really kindness, but acceptance really surprised me. In a way, I felt slightly ashamed for the lack of acceptance that Americans and other powerful countries show for the less fortunate.
The occurrence of small acts like these in Athens taught me that I had so much to learn from being here! I think many others can learn a lot too, if only they would open their eyes. We are often too consumed with first impressions to ever give something a real chance. I almost didn’t give Athens a chance. I almost wrote it off as a city too busy, too poor, too dirty, and too strange for me to ever accept. Fortunately, I opened my eyes. Finally I saw the beauty that has drawn so many into the city of Athens. I now saw the graffiti that covered most surfaces of Athens as forms of art or a way for many to express themselves in this difficult economic and political time. I now saw waiters and shop keepers as human beings rather than unemotional, fake people who were trained to please (and sometimes cheat) tourists. Sure, the ancient part of Athens is beautiful and important; getting to stand on the acropolis and among the foundations of buildings in the agoras will forever be a sweet memory for me. There is so much else, though, to see here. Never close your eyes after your first glance…always look deeper and longer…you’ll always be in for a beautiful surprise in Athens.
Amanda Robinette: National Archaeological Museum
The National Archeological Museum in Athens houses a plethora of important Greek artifacts that date back to the Mycenaean period. The museum itself is a square building, with artifacts arranged chronologically. This set up was particularly effective, as it allowed us to gain a sense of how the Greek culture changed as each civilization developed their own unique style of artwork.
In the first section of the museum, we were able to view a large collection of artifacts from the Mycenaean period. I was initially surprised by the abundance of gold in the collection. There were gold coins, jewelry, headdresses, foil for decorating garments, death masks, figurines, and daggers. One of the most valued objects in the museum was the gold death mask of Agamemnon, king of Mycenae. While at the site several weeks ago, we were able to view the circular burial plot where Agamemnon would have been buried with the gold death mask. We learned that he was killed by his wife Clytemnestra after he returned from the Trojan War. The death masks were created to be a work of art, and while they were designed for a particular individual, they were not created to represent their qualities realistically. While each death mask was unique from the other, they lacked the human characteristics that would allow them to be uniquely human. Again, we see another example of how the wealth of a family or the importance of an individual is shown through death.
In the next section of the museum, we were able to see the progression in statues of the human form through the changes that occurred in various periods. The first interesting thing to note about the Greek statues is that the majority were originally made from bronze, not marble. However, the majority of the statues were remade using marble after many of the bronze statues were plundered or destroyed. We were fortunate to have been able to view several preserved bronze statues, many of which that were found after being preserved in the ocean or from fire. For example, the stunning bronze statue of either Zeus or Poseidon was found on the ocean floor able to be preserved due to the lack of oxygen at the ocean’s depth. The bronze figures also possessed glass eyes, a unique feature not seen in the marble statues, although many were destroyed purposefully by anti-pagan groups in an attempt to remove their personalities.
Now, back to the progression of statues. Starting with the Archaic period, we initially saw statues made to stand in stiff and unnatural poses. While the Kouros and Koure (young adults depicted in the statues) universally had intricate hair and smiles, their stance did not portray any sense of movement. The same unnatural stance was utilized in the early Classical period. However, into the Classical Period, the sculptures began to take shape, became more individualized, and looked as though movement was possible. Different poses became more common. It is unclear to me as to whether the earlier sculptures were incapable of creating lifelike figures or if they simply preferred their unique portrayal of the human form (although, we speculate the later). Either way, it was interesting to see how the statues changed, from the stiff statues of Archaic period to the naturalistic statues of the Classical and Hellenistic period.
Besides statues, the museum also housed a great collection of burial stones. The stones were very unique in that they often conveyed the emotions associated with the loss of a loved one. Many of them were very elaborate and intricate, always representing the deceased individual in the sitting position with their loved ones surrounding them. Some were even so realistic as to evoke emotion, as one portrayed a young child reaching out to his deceased mother. While ancient Greek family life is often portrayed as strained and cold, the burial stones portrayed just the opposite. In ancient life, family was often all an individual had and was something to be treasured. The stones illustrated the grief and loss that the family members felt upon the death of a family member and demonstrated the importance of family ties within Greek culture.
Lastly, the museum housed a plethora of Roman statues, which were known for their use of marble and their realistic portrayal of individuals. They called this style of statue portraits, as they were often individualized and lifelike.
Overall, I think the National Archeological Museum was a great way to end the trip as it tied all the history that we had talked about throughout our three weeks together.
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| Mask of Agamemnon |
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| Gold Artifacts |
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| Bronze statue (either Zeus or Poseidon) |
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| Archaic Kore |
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| Hellenistic |
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| Burial stone, with a child reaching out to his mother |
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| Roman statues |
Lauren: Kerameikos
When we arrived at Kerameikos Cemetery, it was not at all what I had pictured it to be like. In my head, I saw rows and rows of marble tombstones surrounded by walls separating it from the ancient city. But instead, Kerameikos seemed to be a major part of the city. Although it lay outside the city walls, the cemetery led to two entrance gates that allowed people to enter Athens. I was surprised to find out that the cemetery was a bustling place back in ancient times. Roads leading to the gates of the city intersected inside the cemetery. Graves were arranged on both sides along the road so that people entering and leaving could pass by and remember those that had passed away. People walked through Kerameikos every day passing by potters who occupied the busy roads selling their works of art. It seemed completely different than what I think of as a cemetery. I typically don’t picture it as an active, busy place with roads running through and people walking all around.
One major difference that I noticed from modern day Greek cemeteries is that the deceased were buried underground. In present day Greece, the caskets are placed above the ground in rows. This I found out, is because of the lack of space. Those who have died are placed in a casket above ground and then are removed once they have decayed. That space is then passed on to someone else. Another difference between modern day Greek and ancient cemeteries had to do with the tombstones. The Kerameikos Cemetery tombstones are much more intricate and elaborate than present day ones. The tombstones ranged from very large to small and typically had intricate stone carvings on the front. Many of them took the form of the deceased. The marble stone displayed the deceased sitting down while a family member stood holding their hand. This image in the marble conveyed the message of saying goodbye. I thought modern day tombstones didn’t even compare to these intricate works of art. Nowadays, you don’t really see sculpted tombstones with elaborate designs. They are simple and plain compared to ancient times.
Unlike modern cemeteries that are used for quiet places to remember those that have passed away, Kerameikos was used majorly for show and only slightly for religious reasons. The intricate tombstones that lined the roads intersecting the cemetery were used to show off the grandeur of the city and its strength and confidence during that ancient time period.
One major difference that I noticed from modern day Greek cemeteries is that the deceased were buried underground. In present day Greece, the caskets are placed above the ground in rows. This I found out, is because of the lack of space. Those who have died are placed in a casket above ground and then are removed once they have decayed. That space is then passed on to someone else. Another difference between modern day Greek and ancient cemeteries had to do with the tombstones. The Kerameikos Cemetery tombstones are much more intricate and elaborate than present day ones. The tombstones ranged from very large to small and typically had intricate stone carvings on the front. Many of them took the form of the deceased. The marble stone displayed the deceased sitting down while a family member stood holding their hand. This image in the marble conveyed the message of saying goodbye. I thought modern day tombstones didn’t even compare to these intricate works of art. Nowadays, you don’t really see sculpted tombstones with elaborate designs. They are simple and plain compared to ancient times.
Unlike modern cemeteries that are used for quiet places to remember those that have passed away, Kerameikos was used majorly for show and only slightly for religious reasons. The intricate tombstones that lined the roads intersecting the cemetery were used to show off the grandeur of the city and its strength and confidence during that ancient time period.
Erica: Osios Loukas
As soon as I stepped off of the bus when we arrived at Osios Loukas, I was overcome by the most gorgeous scenery that almost looked like a backdrop. The landscape was full of different patches of land that almost seemed organized: groves of olive trees, patches of flowers, squares of land reserved for crop harvesting and of course numerous hills and mountains in the background.
However, the natural aesthetic wasn’t only contained to the outlying regions of Osios Loukas, it was incorporated into the monastery itself, both literally and in the surrounding areas around the buildings. There are trees and plants with plenty of wild life inhabiting these areas. Birds’ song filled the air and it felt like we were about to embark on a wilderness walk as opposed to entering the monastery. It wasn’t long until we were standing right outside of the monastery buildings when Jeff explained how part of the Byzantine style was to incorporate nature into their art and buildings. There were flower patterns, knots, stars, leaves and even some animals in the architecture both inside and outside of the churches. The whole concept and the environment that the monastery is located in brings the idea of having a more naturalistic outlook full circle.
Once we were in the monastery it was interesting to see the stark contrasts between the newer and older ones. When you first enter the newer monastery, you immediately look to the ceilings because of an overwhelmingly beautiful gold sheen, due to the sunlight bouncing off of the mosaic tiles that cover the entire ceiling. They are formed into pictures and scenes from biblical stories. They follow a typical Byzantine style in that at the top in the dome of the ceiling, the holiest members are depicted, followed by saints and continuing all the way down the wall until it reaches the floor, where people of modern day are standing in the middle, making the continuum of heaven and earth an easier concept to grasp. When traveling from the new monastery to the old one, you first encounter the most recent tomb of St. Loukas, which is clear so you can see into it. St. Loukas’s actual hand is exposed for your viewing pleasure. The hand is black and decayed and brings another layer and meaning to the concept of the “natural” feeling of the scenery and architecture. Seeing something so old from a saint from the year 950 is something that is unfathomable and, to be honest, I was a little bewildered how I could be so close to something of that nature.
We then actually entered the old monastery and I was immediately taken aback by not being overcome by gold mosaics, but simply bricks and stone. There were no mosaics at all and barely any paintings on the wall. This contrast physically shows the progression of the artistic movement, partially because of expense, but also due to artistic preference and available materials. However, no matter what medium, the same sense of which scenes were displayed in both the new and the old were the same, keeping the Byzantine feeling true throughout.
We then actually entered the old monastery and I was immediately taken aback by not being overcome by gold mosaics, but simply bricks and stone. There were no mosaics at all and barely any paintings on the wall. This contrast physically shows the progression of the artistic movement, partially because of expense, but also due to artistic preference and available materials. However, no matter what medium, the same sense of which scenes were displayed in both the new and the old were the same, keeping the Byzantine feeling true throughout.
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| New Monastery |
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| Old Monastery |
We also discussed some other details regarding the church and some of the saints they believed in. One thing Jeff mentioned that I particularly remember was when he was talking about the two chanters that would stand towards the front. These positions were almost always held by men and they would lead the group in monotone chanting, but everyone would still read along with them. While there are some similarities between Judaism and the synagogue, such as the holiest of things and scriptures being at the very front of the temple / church where only priests or rabbis are allowed, this particular comment about the chanters is much different. In what I know from my brief time attending Sunday school at a synagogue, there is typically one canter, usually a female, who leads and also sings by herself but in very vocalized manner so that she stands out. I found this difference interesting, since there are a lot of things that are similar between the two religions in some ways. I also really enjoyed seeing the different depictions of all of the different saints and all of the stories behind them: what they are known for, their oddities, why we worship them, etc. It gives meaning behind the familiar names and also behind why they are depicted as often as they are.
Overall, the visit to Osios Loukas was eye opening, not only because we saw the very old, decaying hand of St. Loukas, but also because of the architecture, art work, and stories behind all of the religious figures. I definitely learned a lot in terms of appreciation for different religions and the art work that goes along with them.
Thursday, June 9, 2011
Itinerary for the Second Half of the Program
Since returning to Athens, we've been pretty busy but also managed to squeeze in a free weekend.
- Wednesday, June 1: Dinner at Ice Grill, then opera in the Odeon of Herodes Atticus.
- Thursday, June 2: Visit to the Keraeikos Cemetary.
- Thursday evening through Sunday evening: Free weekend. Some went to Santorini, others visited Floivos, Aegina, and saw a movie at the cinema near the Zappeio.
- Monday, June 6: Visit to the Agora.
- Tuesday, June 7: Excursion to Delphi and the monastery of Osios Loukas.
- Wednesday, June 8: Visit to the National Archaeological Museum.
- Thursday, June 9: Visit to Mt. Lykabettos and farewell dinner.
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| The Temple of Hephaestus, from the Agora. |
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| Scenes from Delphi. |
Jenny: Delphi
Unfortunately the image of a half-naked and ripped Gerard Butler dangerously climbing an almost vertical mountain in a thunderstorm to consult an oracle consisting of a woman obviously on hallucinogens and the disfigured priests who relay her unconscious, drug inspired “prophecies” is not an accurate portrayal of what the oracles of the gods were in the time of the ancient Greeks. Needless to say, I was shocked and extremely disappointed in Warner Brothers Pictures. When we visited the Temple of Apollo today in Delphi, the ruins at the site of his oracle conveyed a very different story to their visitors than the misleading, although entertaining, writers of 300.
First of all, the oracle does not lie at the top of a mountain; it is easily accessible to those of us who are not experienced rock climbers or Spartan warriors. Nor is it a sacred, quiet temple with a few other buildings for the housing of the oracles themselves and the priests. Instead, I discovered Delphi to be quite large, with a theater, stadium and many other buildings that made it a relatively busy place most of the year as it was used for theater festivals and the Olympic games in addition to the consultation of the oracle. Also, there was lots of building activity in the area as many different city-states built their personal treasuries to Apollo around the temple. By the end of the fifth century there were 27 individual treasuries, each full of treasure, spoils of war, and other valuable objects. While the original purpose of each treasury was to house the offerings made to the god for favorable oracles, the elaboration and filling of the treasuries became a competition; each city-state was trying to outdo the others and the buildings became symbols of the power and wealth of its specific builder, a sort of intimidation factor. During this time, the Greeks had no concept of the separation of church and state, making the environment of Delphi as much of a political as well as religious one.
Secondly, when visiting the oracle, most people already knew the answer to their question or willed the answer they wanted out of the oracle in their interpretation of the prophecy or through bribery. Offerings were made to the god (or sometimes even to the priest or Pythia herself) as a way to manipulate the oracle into providing a favorable outcome. Individuals used the oracle as a scapegoat when they didn’t want to make hard decisions and decided the answers to their own questions by interpreting the prophecy in the way they so chose (this usually ended up being beneficial for themselves). Not all prophecies were at first acceptable to the subject and in such an instance, a Greek would not accept an answer that conflicted greatly with his interests. The receiver of an ominous or displeasing oracle would then usually appeal to the god with even more gifts or sacrifices in the hopes that he would receive a better prophesy the second time around. With the “direction” of Apollo, the people visiting the oracle indirectly decided their own consequences.
In conclusion, the site visit to Delphi was extremely interesting and I discovered many things about Greek paganism that I had not previously known, but in spite of all this new knowledge, I feel compelled to say that the most important lesson I learned today is that not everything I see in movies is real.
First of all, the oracle does not lie at the top of a mountain; it is easily accessible to those of us who are not experienced rock climbers or Spartan warriors. Nor is it a sacred, quiet temple with a few other buildings for the housing of the oracles themselves and the priests. Instead, I discovered Delphi to be quite large, with a theater, stadium and many other buildings that made it a relatively busy place most of the year as it was used for theater festivals and the Olympic games in addition to the consultation of the oracle. Also, there was lots of building activity in the area as many different city-states built their personal treasuries to Apollo around the temple. By the end of the fifth century there were 27 individual treasuries, each full of treasure, spoils of war, and other valuable objects. While the original purpose of each treasury was to house the offerings made to the god for favorable oracles, the elaboration and filling of the treasuries became a competition; each city-state was trying to outdo the others and the buildings became symbols of the power and wealth of its specific builder, a sort of intimidation factor. During this time, the Greeks had no concept of the separation of church and state, making the environment of Delphi as much of a political as well as religious one.
Secondly, when visiting the oracle, most people already knew the answer to their question or willed the answer they wanted out of the oracle in their interpretation of the prophecy or through bribery. Offerings were made to the god (or sometimes even to the priest or Pythia herself) as a way to manipulate the oracle into providing a favorable outcome. Individuals used the oracle as a scapegoat when they didn’t want to make hard decisions and decided the answers to their own questions by interpreting the prophecy in the way they so chose (this usually ended up being beneficial for themselves). Not all prophecies were at first acceptable to the subject and in such an instance, a Greek would not accept an answer that conflicted greatly with his interests. The receiver of an ominous or displeasing oracle would then usually appeal to the god with even more gifts or sacrifices in the hopes that he would receive a better prophesy the second time around. With the “direction” of Apollo, the people visiting the oracle indirectly decided their own consequences.
In conclusion, the site visit to Delphi was extremely interesting and I discovered many things about Greek paganism that I had not previously known, but in spite of all this new knowledge, I feel compelled to say that the most important lesson I learned today is that not everything I see in movies is real.
Scenes from the Free Weekend
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| The dancing Celtics in Monastiraki |
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| Views from the ferry to Aegina |
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| Posters for the two theatrical productions we've seen in outdoor theaters: Cavalliera Rusticana / Pagliacci on the left, Hangover II on the right. |
Tuesday, June 7, 2011
Maggie: Mystras
Upon entering the city of Mystras, deep in the mountainside near Sparta, it was hard to believe that thousands of people once populated this area. Although the remains of the city are merely parts of various buildings and churches, Mystras has a special and unique element to it. As one of the more religious sites we have visited, the first things that really stuck out to me were the byzantine churches. True to byzantine architecture, these churches are not only picturesque from the outside, but grow in beauty when you look inside. The churches have been preserved and allow visitors to walk inside, which is something we really haven’t seen or experienced quite yet. At many of the sites we have been visiting, we have not been able to actually step inside the buildings. In Mystras, however, we had the opportunity to explore and walk around the churches. The art that can still be seen on the walls is so intricate and detailed. Each of the paintings, like the ones in the St. Nicholas Church, tell stories of the various saints. In particular, the architecture of the Church of St. Sophia stuck out in my mind. The ground layout followed a crucifix form, with a dome at the roof. During the Byzantine Empire, expression of religion was particularly common in most art and the city of Mystras exemplifies this.
Another observation that struck my attention during our visit to Mystras was watching the visitors use the ancient churches for their intended purposes. Some of the churches that have been preserved are still being practiced in today. As I was able to watch some of the visitors light the candles and pray in these churches, it really formed a connection between our modern day world and the city’s history. As I tried to watch some of these visitors, I noticed that they were kissing the icon of the Virgin Mary. I later was informed that this is a common practice that many people partake in because they believe that touching and embracing a religious icon is actually putting them in a direct connection to those that are holy. I have never really seen this happen and it was quite fascinating to watch. Also, I saw right away that below some of the religious paintings, there were gold and silver plates that serve as votive offerings, also known as tamata, that had different body parts embossed on them. These plates correspond to the different body parts of people who are suffering from disease or sickness. They are delivered by people who are praying for these sick people.
Overall, although it was quite a hot day and we had to endure many stairs once again (a common trend in our daily excursions), the city of Mystras was quite impressive.
Another observation that struck my attention during our visit to Mystras was watching the visitors use the ancient churches for their intended purposes. Some of the churches that have been preserved are still being practiced in today. As I was able to watch some of the visitors light the candles and pray in these churches, it really formed a connection between our modern day world and the city’s history. As I tried to watch some of these visitors, I noticed that they were kissing the icon of the Virgin Mary. I later was informed that this is a common practice that many people partake in because they believe that touching and embracing a religious icon is actually putting them in a direct connection to those that are holy. I have never really seen this happen and it was quite fascinating to watch. Also, I saw right away that below some of the religious paintings, there were gold and silver plates that serve as votive offerings, also known as tamata, that had different body parts embossed on them. These plates correspond to the different body parts of people who are suffering from disease or sickness. They are delivered by people who are praying for these sick people.
Overall, although it was quite a hot day and we had to endure many stairs once again (a common trend in our daily excursions), the city of Mystras was quite impressive.
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